Manufacture of collars



(Model.)

J. R. P'. PINR, I. P. TURNRR RW. W. SRARLR.

MANURAGTURR 0F COLLARS.

No. 269.229. Patented Deo.19, 1882.

Figi.

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NITED STATES PATENT trice. I

JAMES K. P. PINE, OF LANSINGBURG, AND ISAAC P. TURNER AND WILLARD IV. SEARLE, OF TROY, NEW YORK.

MANUFACTURE oF COLLARS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 269,229, dated December 19, 1882,. Appncaunn enea Mnl-cn t, rss2. (Moat-i.)

To all whom yit may concern Be it known that we, JAMES K. l. PINE, a resident of the village of Lansingburg, county .of Rensselaer, State of New York, and ISAAC P.

TURNER and WILLARD W. SEARLE, residents ot' the city of Troy, State and county aforesaid, have invented anew and useful Method for Turning and Securing the Edges of Collar- Band Blanks, ot' which the following is a speci- Io cation.

Our invention relates to certain improvements iu the manner of uniting and turning the edges of collar-band blanks; and it consists in first prodnci'ng upon the outer cut edge i5 of one of the blanks, or upon the outer cut edges of two of the blanks when three thicknesses of material are used to produce a band, and before the band-blanks are sewed to thel collar on their inner edges, folded over and 2o turned down to close, a sewed and turned or hemmed edge, so that when the other and inner edges ofthe band-blanks are sewed to the collar and the band-blanks are turned over and folded down preparatory to closing them,

the blank or blanks having the sewed and turned or hemmed outer edge will serve as a guide for turning in the outer edge ofthe other blank, so as to secure parallel coincidence and a uniformity of width.

3o In the accompanying drawings, forming a part ot' this specih'cation, there are six tigures illustrating our invention, and in all of which the same designation of parts by letter-reference is used, and all the vertical sectional 3 5 illustrations of the parts are exaggerated in width and thickness to show them.

Figure l illustrates in a vertical section two band-blanks, O O, having a.ro w of stitching, S', near their outer edges, preparatory to turn- 4o ing and creasing them when sewed, with the inner edges of the blanks designated at a, this beingone method offorminga guide-edge when the band is made of three or more blanks. Fig.2 illustrates in a vertical section two bandblanks, O' O, having their combined outer edges felled down by the stitching S, to form a guide-edge, b, when three or more thicknesses are used to make the band, the inner edges of the blanks which attach tothe collarbottoni being designated at a. Fig. 3 shows in a vertical section the position of the sewed blanks illustrated in Fig. 1 after they have been turned so as to form the outer guide-edge, b. Fig. 4 represents in vertical section the collar and attached band after the blanks composing the latter upon their inner edges (desig- `-nated at a. a) have been laid parallel with the edge ofthe collar-bottom, and thelatter intermediately placed andthe parts stitched at S, with the two sides ofthe band turned over the 6o latter stitching and folded, with the outer edge of the band-blank 0 turned in so as .to coincide with the guide-edge b, and the band closed by the stitching S4; the position of the bandblank 0 (which forms onefacing ofthe band) 65 before heilig turned in on its outer edge, so as to coincide with the guide-edge b, beingshown by a dotted line, the guide-edge shown in this ligure being that illustrated in Fig. 2. Fig. 5 illustrates in vertical section that which is 7o shown in Fig. 4, with the exception that the guide-edge b is formed as shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and represents a vertical section taken on the line x of Fig. 6, with the width and thickness ofthe parts exaggerated, as before stated. Fig. 6 represents a plan view of one side of the collar.

As the outer edges of collar-baud blanks which form the band are usually turned in to close them after they have been attached to 8o the collar-bottom, it requires skilled labor and an leducated eye to obtain uniformity of band width, even from the saine widths of bandblanks, and often where the greatest care is exercised this irregularity will occur at times and prominently will appear when the goods have been laundered and are being hunched to package them. Where collar-band blanks are made ot'such width that when folded longitudinally the inner fold will form a thickness 9o ofthe ply, as has been donebefore, the outer folded edge ot' the double band-blank does not produce a secured and nished guideedge, but one that requires subsequent creasing and adjustment with the use of skilled labor to holdit in position while the other bandblanks are being turned in to coincide with it. Another difficulty occurs where this latter method of using a folded blank-edge is employed, in the fact thatit can only be applied roo to such collars as have bands which are straight upon their bottom edge, while by our differing method of producing a guide-edge upon the is done just as well by children as any one out lower edges ofthe blanks anyform of curve can be applied to the bottom of the bands. To avoid this difficulty We produce the guideedge b upon the outer edge of the blanks or blank forming one facing of the band before the band-blanks are attached on their inner edges to the bottom ofthe collar-body, and at a stage in the production ofthe collar when it can be done with accuracy and uniformity. At'ter this has been done and the blanks forming the two facings of the band are laid for stitching, with their inner edges parallel to the bottom of the collar-body, and the latter between the band-facings, with that one ofthe latterhaving the guide-edge on top, the stitching which unites the parts, as designated at S', by means of' a gage, can be located with reference to the guide-edge so as to secure a uniform width of band in each instance. This heilig accomplished, after the facings of the band are turned over and folded to close, that facing having aguide-edge and fixed width furnishes a measure to turn in the edge ofthe other facing, so as to secure uniformity, when the edges are sewed by means of the stitching S4. To thus attach and secure the bands but little skill is required to secure absolute uniformity, and any kind of guide-edge will answer the purpose which will, When closed in, produce a good nish.

The collars made according to this method are uniform in the band width and the Work else, while under the old process skilled labor is required, and even the best of the latter class are unable to produce a uniform product. The facility and accuracy with which the work can be done adds greatly to the value of the process.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The method herein described of attaching collar-bands to collars, consisting in forming upon the outer cnt edge of one of the blanks, or on the outer cut edges ot' two of them when three or more are employed, asewed and turned or hemmed edge, so that when the inner edges ofthe band-blanks are laid parallel to thelower edge ofthe collar-body, which is placed inter mediate, and the parts are thus sewed, and then turning overand down the blanks to close the bottom, the blank or blanks having the sewed and turned or hemmed edge serving as a guide for turning in and sewing the other parts of the band.

Signed at Troy, New York, this 28th day oi' February, 1882.

JAS. K. P. PINE.

ISAAC P. TURNER. VILLARD W. SEARLE.

lWitnesses:

CHARLES S. BRINTNALL, EDWARD J HICKS. 

